The Cook's Newsletter #2 - Chervil

New beginnings….

Last week I decided to move allotment plots. It’s a good idea don’t get me wrong, the new plot is more sheltered and less steep, but it was difficult to let go of a plot I’d tried and largely failed to work over the last three years. So, I have big plans for my new allotment and will be keeping you updated with separate posts and pictures on Instagram and Facebook.

At this time of year it’s hard to get the kids to eat anything except beige food, if your kids are anything like mine they would eat pizza seven days a week! In the summer it’s much easier to get them to eat their veggies, bright yellow courgettes, peas from the pod and super sweet tomatoes straight from the garden, it’s exciting! The only downside of growing your own produce is when you buy from the supermarket it’s just not the same. One of the best all year round, nutrient packed foods you can use in almost any dish is herbs. Herbs like thyme and rosemary are widely used and can be picked most of the year but a lesser known herb that does well through winter is chervil.

I first came across chervil working in a burger bar years ago, they would make their burger seasoning by cooking down onions until they were a brown sticky paste then adding reduced beef stock and fresh chervil it was so fragrant yet delicate, I was hooked. Since then I have used it in almost everything from garnishing meat dishes to a primary flavour in restaurant fish courses. This little herb will grow successfully in all weathers and is now appearing in more and more supermarkets and greengrocers.

Chervil

Chervil is a fast growing annual herb that may not be as well known as some of its more famous relatives like parsley and dill but it is one that deserves a place in every kitchen. Chervil is sometimes referred to as French parsley because of its popularity in French cuisine, where it is an essential ingredient in the herb mixture fines herbes. This slept on herb can be picked as soon as the leaves are fully developed and is a great addition to any garden as it can be grown all year round. Chervil thrives in shady conditions and is tolerant of the cold making it an ideal plant to keep you stocked up on fresh herbs throughout the winter months. It has a mild aniseed flavour which is lost when dried or cooked for too long therefore it is best added fresh either as a garnish or towards the end of your recipes. I add chervil to almost all of my soups and stews as it works great either on its own or with whatever else is growing in your garden!

Chervil is rich in vitamins and minerals. It is an excellent source of vitamin C, vitamin A, and iron. It also contains calcium, potassium, magnesium, and phosphorus. These nutrients are necessary for a variety of bodily functions, including vision, immune system health, bone and teeth strength, muscle and nerve function, and energy production. They also play a role in regulating heart rhythms and activating cell and nerve functions. Chervil is also known to have anti-inflammatory properties.

Sow seeds from March to October directly in their final growing position as the seedlings will grow a delicate taproot that makes transplanting a bit tricky! As mentioned above, Chervil thrives in shady spots and is best kept out of full sun in the spring and summer as this will cause the plant to bolt and become bitter. In autumn, seeds can be planted out or in a cold greenhouse and plants should grow happily all winter.

Chervil Spätzle

What is spätzle? You ask. Spätzle is a type of German egg noodle, dating back to the 16th century, traditionally served with meat dishes with lots and lots of gravy! Spätzle is a great recipe to do with the kids, as once you make the batter you can let the kids make a bit of a mess by pouring the mixture through a colander just be careful as the spätzle needs to be dropped straight into hot water.

Makes: 4-6 servings

Cook time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:

  • 3 large eggs, beaten

  • 120g milk

  • 1tsp salt

  • 2 tbsp chervil, finely chopped

  • 320g plain flour

  • 40g unsalted butter

  • Pinch of white pepper

  • Pinch of ground nutmeg

Instructions:

Combine the eggs, milk, salt, flour and 1 tbsp of chervil in a bowl and beat together until smooth. The mixture should be the consistency of pancake batter. If too runny add a little flour, if too thick add a little water. Bring a pan of salted water up to a boil then reduce it to a simmer. Place half the mixture in a colander and allow small drops to pass through into the simmering water, use a wooden spoon to press the last of the batter through the holes if necessary, then repeat the process with the other half of the batter. The spätzle should take about 5 minutes to cook but you will know when it is ready as the cooked spätzle will float to the surface. Scoop out the spätzle as soon as it’s cooked with a slotted spoon and rinse under cold water then drain well. If making ahead of time, place spätzle on a damp towel in the fridge for up to a couple of days.

To serve, melt your butter in a pan on a medium heat. Add the spätzle, nutmeg and white pepper and heat through. Making sure you break up any pieces that are stuck together. Finally, garnish with the other tablespoon of chervil and serve.

Chervil Sugar

Having a nice delicate aniseed flavour Chervil lends itself to sweet dishes, for me, it perfectly balances out sharper fruits like rhubarb and gooseberry! Here are a couple of simple chervil sugar recipes using different approaches for slightly different results. These recipes are great as you can swap mix and match any herbs you like or even whole spices like cloves or caraway seeds to spice up late season fruit dishes and cakes. Ooh, rice pudding with spiced sugar glazed plums! Sorry, we’ll get there later in the season.

#1

Makes: Loads

Time: 5 minutes plus two weeks

Ingredients

  • 500g caster sugar, or any sugar you prefer

  • 60g chervil,

  • 2 strips of lemon rind, about 2cm (½inch) wide

Instructions

Place the chervil in a bowl and bash with a wooden spoon or in a mortar and pestle if you have one, this helps release the oils in the chervil allowing them to flavour the sugar. pop the sugar, lemon rind and chervil in a jar and seal. Give the jar a wee shake a couple of times a day for the next two weeks, after that strain the sugar and store it in an airtight container for up to a year.

This method will result in a lovely consistent chervil flavour without turning the sugar green.

#2

Makes: about 200g

Time: 5 minutes

Ingredients

  • 200g granulated sugar

  • 50g chervil

Instructions

Pop the chervil and 50g of sugar into a food processor and blend for 10 to 20 seconds until the chervil is finely chopped. Add another 50g of sugar and blend for another 10 seconds. Finally, add the remaining sugar and pulse once or twice to make sure all the sugar is fully incorporated. For best results store in an airtight container in the fridge so the sugar retains its colour, for up to two months.

This method produces a much more intense chervil flavour and the resulting sugar will quite green.

Thanks for reading. Have a great weekend, Please share The Cook’s Newsletter with family and friends. We’d also love to see your creations! Use #thecooksnewsletter on your socials.

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Happy cooking !!

Chef Stu

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